Sunday, October 24, 2010

Joy in the Journey

In looking back over our blog entries, we've realized that we've written a lot about the hardships of coming to and being in Uganda.  There have been joys as well!  I asked each member of the family to tell me some of the joys they've experienced here, and here's the report, from youngest to oldest:


Julia 
  • I like playing with Judith, the young girl who accompanies one of our house helpers.
  • I like knowing the Ugandans' names better than Daddy!
  • I love riding in the car on the bumpy roads and running errands in town.
  • I still like yelling at all times and in all places.
    Lucy
  • I like school, especially playing outside!
  • Exploring Bushara (an island on Lake Bunyonyi.)
  • Drawing with chalk on our front porch.
Georgia

  • The grown-ups are all pretty kind.
  • I like a lot of the foods I've tried, especially posha (rice porridge - sorta) and the sweet potatoes here. The sweet potatoes here are better than the ones back home.
  • I love the lake.
  • I have made a lot of friends here.
Jesse

  • The scenery is beautiful and fun.
  • I like a lot of the food.
  • The people here are nice, even the kids.
  • It's great having the Morrows here.
  • The new way of living is fun. 
  • I love exploring Bushara Island with Micah.
Leslie

  • The love and acceptance from all our house-helpers.  We have adopted them, and they have adopted us.
  • The beauty of the surrounding hills.
  • Canoeing on Lake Bunyonyi and being near water again.  
Travis
  • Protase -- When he first offered his services to us one day after our arrival in Kabale, I was reluctant to accept and suspicious of his intentions.  Now, I look forward to his arrival each morning.  He helps with a ready smile, he can do just about anything I ask, and does more than I realized needed to be done.  He teaches me about the history of the region, culture, and agriculture, and models initiative and hard work.  And he enjoys and watches out for our kids! 
  • The sheer beauty of Kabale -- hills, trees, flowers, clouds, fog, blue skies, intense sun.
  • My Naot shoes.  Seriously.  I bought these shoes before I left, and they rival even my Leatherman for practicality and joy of use.  And they look good!
  • Watching Leslie and the kids laugh and adapt.  They do and say amazing things, and it's great fun when they do it with laughter.
  • The transformation of the Bukiga faces from intensely serious to bright eyes and smiles when we greet or respond to them in Rukiga, their native tongue.
  • Hearing the drums and the university students singing in the distance as I approach the chapel each morning.
  • Praying the prayer below with the whole family each morning before we walk out the door:
O Lord, be gracious to us; we wait for you.
Be our arm every morning,
our salvation in time of trouble.

The Lord is exalted, for he dwells on high;
he will fill Zion with justice and righteousness,
and he will be the stability of your times,
abundance of salvation, wisdom, and knowledge;
the fear of the Lord is Zion's treasure.


Isaiah 33.2, 5-6


Monday, October 18, 2010

The Painful Pace

Rugarama Hill -- Our hill from a distance. You can see the red roofs of BBUC.
 "You're eating up the hill!"

One of the Ugandan lecturers at BBUC made this comment as our paths intersected on campus. I was trudging up the trail to our house at my normal rate, but his remark (which meant, from his perspective, that I was moving uphill in a hurry) reminded me of how different the pace of life is here.  Everyone and everything moves much more slowly.  Rarely do I see a Ugandan run.  Adults and children alike wait with seemingly unending patience for everything from a meal to important meetings. A simple 5 minute walk to drop off a document easily becomes an hour long stroll through two or three conversations...and the document still doesn't reach its destination. When you go out to eat at a restaurant, it never takes less than an hour for the first course to arrive.

The change of pace applies to establishing a home as well. It goes without saying, of course, that there are no Ikeas, Wal-Marts, or Targets for easy shopping. Furniture has to be ordered from one or two local carpenters.  Two weeks completion times is impressive speed -- for two pieces of furniture. Any do-it-yourself projects have a similar completion rate.  I have to go to one store for nails, another to find something similar to string, and yet another to find anything like a stool.  Each of those purchases, by the way, end up happening on separate days.  So it took me 4 days to hang a small, cheap mirror in the bathroom.

It's no surprise, of course, that church services also are a bit longer.  Reference is often made to keeping time, but while the drums calling us to worship start beating a little before 9am, the service itself doesn't normally begin until about 30 minutes after the official start time.  And I love what the bishop said to me when he and I met to talk about my upcoming responsibilities in the diocese.  "I know in America you give these homilies that are 10 to 15 minutes.  Not here.  Here, we preach.  Say what must be said.  Don't think about the time."

This is the base of the toilet brush holder in our bathroom.
A different pace of life.  We do like it, but it is indeed challenging. Immediate gratification is not an option. Actually, lots of kinds of self-gratification are not options!  Wine and beer are out because of the Christian culture here and the harsh reality of rampant alcoholism.  I can't get any kind of dairy product that makes my coffee taste the way I like it.  We can't find items that make our house feel like home.  Nothing tastes great to us, regardless of anyone's culinary creativity.  It can take three or four days before I can print a needed document.  We're frequently without power, and even more frequently without running water.  There definitely have been moments when we've cried out, in different ways and at different volumes, this is no kind of life!

That leads us to ask, of course, where it is we're finding life.  We've been surprised to discover how much value we've placed on certain things and certain ways of living, how much in the past we have "found life" in things and circumstances that gratify us.  Yes, yes...we're Christians, and we know that true life is only found in Jesus.  We've always known that.  But when the all the other things that have been life-giving are stripped way, it's rather shocking, and even painful.  Like ripping the band-aid off to expose a wound still in the process of healing.

That is where we find ourselves -- band-aids ripped off, unprecedented vulnerability to the elements, life-giving gratifications sucked away.  And so we turn to Jesus.  "I am the way, the truth, the life...."  Hidden with Christ in God, is how Paul describes it in Colossians.  The band-aids gone, we feel even small jabs of pain more acutely, yet now we have the opportunity to turn from self-gratification to self-emptying, with the hope that we will be filled with real Life.  We're just on the shoreline of experiencing that life.

I know I'm mixing metaphors and bumbling around in a late-night, culture-shocked way of trying to say something simple and un-surprising: The pace of life in Uganda and the absence of self-gratifying resources is freeing us to experience a new kind of life in Jesus.  That freedom is both painful and healing.

A Crested Crane -- The Ugandan national bird roosting on a tree in our yard

Sunday, October 03, 2010

Welcomes and Celebrations

A lot can happen in a week.  Like most of our lives, the majority of the moments are small ones that a hard to record and even remember.  Each one is important, each one shapes and re-shapes both a particular days as well as an entire experience, but how do you recount them to others in a way that conveys the depth of meaning you've found in them?  In less than seven days several of us have been in places of utter despair, as well as being in places where we've glimpsed a hopeful future and present reality of God's activity.  Kids have come home from school in tears of frustration, loneliness, and embarrassment, and have also gone out to explore and conquer literal and figurative islands of newness and fear.  I've been uncharacteristically harsh with our 4 year old, and have also had some deeply tender and significant times with her.  Leslie and I have both been utterly exhausted in our house, but have found great rest on the island of a nearby lake.

And those barely touch the experiences of the past several days since my last post to the blog.  Nevertheless, let me share with you a few photos and experiences of particular significance:


BBUC Reception
Welcoming and Commissioning at BBUC Chapel
Last Sunday, September 26, Bishop Barham University College officially received the Morrow family and us into their community in a church service in their chapel on Sunday morning, and at a tea reception following the service.  In the photo above are several important folks: The Rev. Matthias from Germany, a lecturer here who, with his wife and children, have done much to welcome us; the Rev. Canon Gideon (giving the blessing), university chaplain and a Trinity alumnus and our neighbor; the Rev. Canon Dr. Muranga (center), principal of BBUC and a man of tender humility; the Rev. Canon Jovahn, deputy principal and the man with whom I've been in contact for 5 years, and who has worked the hardest to receive us here in Kabale.

Rev. Gideon, Prof. Muranga, Rev. Paula Sage
Leslie remarked that this part of the service was very special to her as we knelt before our Ugandan community, looking at their African feet and feeling their hands on our heads, as they both received us, blessed us, and commissioned us for the work God has for us here.  It was both humbling and empowering, sweet and significant.  As they received us, Prof. Muranga reminded the congregation of two missionary families who had come decades before us, and of the impact they had had on the community of Kabale, and he prayed for a similar ministry to flow from us to them.  (I'll have to tell their story another time.)

I also had the honor of preaching in that same service.  They let me choose the text, so I picked Colossians chapter 3, which has been a key passage for me for many years.  My call to them (and to our team) was to "Remember what is real -- your life is hidden with Christ, in God."  Fear creeps into our lives, deceiving us and causing us to forget what is real, and the temptation is to react to our circumstances by grabbing control and trying to hold it together. We forget that only in Christ do all things hold together, and that he is present and active in all circumstances.  The call, then, is to rest in the protective embrace of the Father, and to respond to what Jesus is doing in the moment.  Living hidden in Christ, responding to his presence, is the starting place for the flow of our lives, a place to which we must return, even moment by moment.  Remember what is real....  Hard to do, really, but essential.  This has become vitally important for me in these difficult early weeks of our time in Uganda.

Following the service was a tea held in our honor where we sat at a table in front of the gathered community and simply drank tea and ate some food.  Eventually there were some wonderful words of welcome spoken to us ("you are no longer visitors, but family...hide nothing in your hearts from us...."), and we had the opportunity to speak as well.  The highlight for me, however, was when we were invited to cut a cake, and then we served them the cake from a common plate!

SCHOOL DAYS
Jesse and Georgia on their first day of school
 
I share this because it is one of the biggest challenges for us right now, and it gives a glimpse into the realities of culture shock.  In the photo above Jesse and Georgia look excited and ready for their first day of school at Kabale Preparatory School.  Well, they were ready...until they got there.  Our cross-cultural training at MTI talked about the "twang" of missions -- the further reality is from what your expectations are, the greater the twang, the greater the pain of encountering reality.  Well, school for the kids can be summed up in one word:  "TWANG!"  School begins at 7:45 am, and is supposed to go until 6pm, with a half day on Saturday.  Did we know that before the first few days of school?  Nope.  Twang.  Lunch served there every day is either beans and rice or beans and potatoes.  Twang.  The kids spend the majority of the day copying down their assignments from the blackboard to paper.  Twang.  There are over 50 kids in Jesse's class.  Twang.  They, with the Morrow kids, are the only Western, white faces at this "international" school.  Twang.  Our straight A students are now lagging behind the rest of the class. Twang.  They can barely understand the English of their teachers or their fellow students.  Twang.  Crowds of kids follow them between classes asking them questions they can barely understand.  Twang.  Because of intense competition for places at secondary schools, we can only expect things to become more challenging.  Twang.

Our kids are going through the wringer, and it is hard to watch, and hard to know what to say and how to walk alongside them in all of this.  Yes, of course, we're talking to teachers and administrators and requesting and receiving exceptions, and students and staff alike are being wonderfully understanding and accommodating.  And, yes, we're seeing remarkable bravery, humility, kindness, tenderness, and responsiveness shining through our children.  Jesse, for example, spent one recent afternoon in tears.  He asked if he could just go play his video game for a while, but I instead asked him just to sit on the couch and cry for as long as the tears would come, then come talk to me when he was ready.  He did that, and we had a long, sweet, significant conversation following that time.  It concluded in the evening with Jesse saying, "I hope that Scripture is true that says, "Weeping may endure for the night, but joy comes in the morning!"  The next morning a modicum of joy did come, and they all returned for another day of school, better than the day before, but still not easy.

HOUSE AND HOME
Leslie and kids on the porch in the evening
 One of the other challenging things is our house.  It's not yet a home.  Endless delays, miscommunications, power outages, water outages, paucity of resources, our own ignorance of how things work or where to find things, and just the daily struggle to get food on the table and other basic needs met keep us from being fully settled, which keeps us from having a home that provides and peace at the end of the day and life for the coming day.  And yet if you walked into our house, you would see evidence of the work that our hosts have done to ready the house for us -- new paint on the walls, tile in the bathroom, selves in the kitchen, furniture loaned to give us places to sit and eat and rest.  Also you would find our help hard at work -- Protase planting a garden and tending the grounds, Sharon cooking over charcoal and preparing our lunch, Maureen doing our laundry and hanging it on the line, Judith caring for Maureen's baby.  We are loved and provided and cared for...but not settled.  We have a house, but the energy and time it is taking to make it a home are both much greater than we expected, and at times seem more than we can endure.  And yet we are hidden with Christ in God, and we do endure, and another modicum of joy comes each morning....

Sharon cooking in "the boys' quarters," a shed behind our house
Protase cutting the grass with a "ponga" (machete)
Julia sitting with Judith

Maureen doing dishes

A table set by Leslie
 
BBUC Graduation
Social Work Graduands Rejoicing
 Well, this one is going to have to be shorter than I wanted.  Julia is crying (again), and it is past 11pm here....  I'm trying to be in bed no later than 10:30pm, and most nights I'm awakened by either Julia or Lucy crying.  We haven't had a full night's sleep in a long time.

Post graduation walk to lunch

Suffice it to say that a great way to begin is to see the end.  In other words, to sit and watch these East Africans (people from Uganda, Rwanda, Congo, Burundi, and Sudan) graduate and take the first steps into their new lives -- education, social work, public relations, environmental conservation, gender studies, ministry -- and to see the movement of God in full gear before we even get started.... This was a great reminder as to how God has already been at work without us present, and how much the staff and students of BBUC are already doing, and how we are just getting to join in a work that has been going on for decades.  There is a lot for us to learn before we can even begin to contribute.  (One particularly exciting bit for us, since our motto is "raising up a generation of Ugandans to reach the world for Christ," was watching as one Ugandan was commissioned as a missionary to Germany.)





Archbishop UCU Chancellor  Henry Orombi Presides

Bishop George Katwesigye and Bishop Kenneth Barham